Category Archives: Philadelphia

My Lunch: The Mythical Garlic Cart

I usually try to avoid food carts: those mobile metal eateries that litter city streets despite said cities having about a bajillion other places to eat.

Excuse me while I generalize, but I find them to be depressing, dirty and just plain superfluous food entities that prey on hurried and uncreative business people. In other words, most of us.

But sometimes, there’s a story. A story which floats around your office like a bad odor. A story that eventually makes it to your cubicle despite it starting in another department. It’s a story about The Cart. For my office, it’s known by an additional, crucial word: garlic.

THE GARLIC CART

According to the story, which had now taken on mythical proportions (at least in my mind), the garlic cart was an institution. The owner/proprietor sets up shop around 10:30 a.m. and caters only to an in-the-know lunch crowd, some of whom wait on line for upwards of a half hour.

What does this wizard create? Probably the tastiest, strangest and most garlic-filled sandwich in all of Philadelphia.

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Food News Roundup

1. Irvine Robbins, co-founder of Baskin-Robbins ice cream, died at the age of 90.

We used to have a Baskin-Robbins in my neighborhood when I was a kid, and I would always get World Class Chocolate. I have no idea if that’s still part of the “31 flavors” at the current stores (now owned and operated by the Dunkin’ Donuts conglomerate), but going to that B-R for the first time will forever be one of my warmest ice cream memories.

2. Melograno, still the number 1 restaurant on my Philly Top 10, has lost its lease and will move this summer.

According to the Philadelphia Inquirer’s Food and Drinq blog:

Melograno, one of the best-received of the recent crop of mom-and-pop BYOs, has lost its lease after five years.

July 28 will be its last day at 22d and Spruce Streets, says Rosemarie Tran, who owns Melograno with her husband, Gianluca Demontis.

They’re relocating to 2010 Sansom St. — same name and concept — and hope to be up and running in September, taking advantage of their usual August vacation.

Although its current neighborhood is much nicer, I can’t complain since they’re moving around the corner from me. As long as the quality stays high, I’ll be there on a regular basis.

3. Who added the extra “r” in shebert?

If you just pronounced that last word like “sherbert,” join the crowd. Thankfully, we have Anu Garg of MSN’s new On Words column to show us the folly of our ways.

The word is from Arabic, but it took a scenic route to English. It stopped by Persian and Turkish before reaching the shores of the English language. In Arabic šarbat is a drink. (By the way, the word syrup is a cousin of this word.)

Don’t worry, his daughter got it wrong too.

Excuses, Explanations and Updates

That’s not true; it’s really just a pile of excuses.

But rather than bore you with those, check out some of the stuff I’ve been up to while not writing about food:

The New York Comic Con

Yes, I have been known to let my geek flag fly on occasion (or many occasions), but I’ve never done the whole costume thing like the above collection of Batman misfits. Ever notice that no matter how good the costumes are, there’s always something off? Mr. Freeze is fairly imaginative – hockey gear and all – but the Penguin (and I can’t believe I’m saying this about a convention attendee) is too tall and not nearly pudgy enough.

For the Least Believable Character/Body Type Combo award, it’s a tie between him and the 5′ 2″ skinny dude I saw slathered up in green body paint as the Incredible Hulk. How about tackling characters more your respective sizes, guys?

The Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus

I hadn’t been to the circus in a good twenty years, but we scored free tickets thanks to my wife’s chance encounter with a sick tiger at vet school. How’s that for a perk?

The big-top event was naturally geared toward kids, but there were a few huh?-inducing adult moments. First, for one routine, the house band did an instrumental version of “Smack My Bitch Up” by The Prodigy. Now, I’m sure the kids didn’t get the reference (and the title was never mentioned), but everyone in my generation looked at each other and cringed at the subtle inappropriateness of the song selection.

Even wackier were some of the costumes and moves perpetrated by the circus “dancers.” At one point, there were a dozen of these cheerleader-like ladies, clad in black leather, fishnet stockings, and handle bars jutting out from their hips (you read that right), gyrating to the music.

I couldn’t believe my eyes. The kids may have been focused on the ringmaster/clown war in the middle of the arena, but the adults were treated to red-light-district-worthy strip show in the shadows. Kinda creepy.

The Future

One of life’s so-called transitional periods has heavily intruded on my blogging schedule recently and will keep posts at a minimum for the next month or so.

In the meantime, feel free to offer guesses on how I received this oh-so-painful blister on my finger.

I’ll give you a hint: it happened in the kitchen.

Le Bec-Fin goes mainstream

The fanciest of fancy Philadelphia restaurants has just gotten a little less, well… fancy, according to Zagat:

Georges Perrier, saying he wants to have fun and stop obsessing over his Mobil five stars, has dropped the prix fixe policy at Le Bec-Fin, his Center City West landmark. Most mains on the à la carte dinner menu are priced under $40, and the reservation book has slots every 15 minutes, not two seatings a night.

I have mixed feelings about this move. On the one hand, I like it when owners try to mix things up and infuse some unpredictability into stodgy institutions. On the other hand, as someone who’s never experienced this particular institution, I feel like I’m being robbed of the full Le Bec-Fin treatment.

I guess when I finally do make it there, I can take solace in the fact that I won’t know what I’m missing. But that’s cold comfort when part of the reason you’re going in the first place (the exclusive fine dining charm) has been unceremoniously stripped away.

Is it too much to ask to have both styles of dining? A couple of mass seatings and prix-fixes for the traditionalists and newbies (like me), and a more mainstream, a la carte experience for the rest?

And by the way, when did a gas station get to be the preeminent judge of dining quality in the United States? Taking restaurant suggestions from Mobil is like asking my local mechanic how to make a soufflé.

Best pizza ever?

First of all, a big thank you to Foodaphilia for the photos I forgot to take, even though I actually had my camera.

Second of all, wow.

Tacconelli’s serves easily the best pizza I’ve had in Philly, and probably the best thin-crust pizza in the land. Could it be the best ever? We’ll get to that in a minute.

One of the most interesting, and debated, aspects of the Tacconelli’s experience is the requirement that you reserve dough at least one day ahead. This does not mean, however, that you’re expected to make your own pie out of a pile of raw pizza dough. Far from it.

This policy is simply a means – and a quite effective one at that – of quality control. Tacconelli’s, a “one-man, one-oven operation,” does not (and will not) use refrigerated or frozen dough. They only make as many pizzas as there is dough to make them. Sound logic if you ask me.

The place itself is fairly dumpy. You got a few chairs, a few tables, a linoleum floor and some lights. It takes “no frills” to an almost ludicrous level, with only paper plates, paper napkins and plastic cups for your beverages – which, as you might expect, are BYO.

But mamma mia, what a pizza pie! From the first crunchy-soft bite to the last, this was the very epitome of good eats. Though I never got to see the actual menu (a small laminated thing tossed haphazardly around the table), I counted at least four different types of pies:

  1. Tomato Pie – the White Stripes of pizza is just crust and thick sauce
  2. Margherita Pie – add a few razor-thin slices of fresh mozzarella and sprinkling of fresh basil to the tomato pie and bang! another winner
  3. Regular Pie – resembles your average pie, with a nice sheen of cheese (although still less than most). Ours was topped with sausage and shrooms.
  4. White Pie – “consists of salt, black pepper, cheese and plenty of garlic.” We got this one with tomatoes and spinach, which were piled so high as to completely obscure the “whiteness” 

I must have had at least six slices out of the five pies we ordered. On a good night, I’m guessing I could probably down a whole pie myself. It’s really that good.

However…

I just can’t bring myself to rate it above Grimaldi’s in Brooklyn. Although they’re both in somewhat remote parts of their respective cities – Tacconelli’s in Port Richmond, about 20 minutes north of Center City; and Grimaldi’s in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge – and both pride themselves on the freshness of their dough and other ingredients, Tacconnelli’s strikes me as too much of a specialty pie.

I’m fairly certain the thin crust is closer to what’s made in Italy, but pizza is as American as it is Italian. And the gold standard of this mixed tradition is still Grimaldi’s.

Sorry, Philly. If it makes you feel any better, you’ve got Boston pizza beaten by a mile!

It Exists! A How-To Guide for Free Lunch in Philly

Unlike Sasquatch, the grassy knoll shooter and a satisfying version of the third Godfather movie, the ever-elusive “free lunch” actually exists. If you’re in downtown Philly, here’s how to get one:

1. Get a job that provides you with copious amounts of business cards.

2. Find a plastic fishbowl, preferably with a sign that urges you to deposit a business card “for your chance to win a free lunch for you and 5 to 10 of your co-workers!”

3. Deposit your business card into said receptacle.

4. Wait.

5. Win. You’ll know you’ve completed this step when you receive an enthusiastic, congratulatory phone call from a financial services representative. Act happy.

6. The financial guy (and it’s always a guy) will make restaurant arrangements and send you a sign-up sheet and menu for your convenience.

7. Your office-mates will debate whether they can escape work for an hour next Tuesday. Mass indecisiveness will cause your sign-up sheet to resemble one of those declassified military documents.

8. On the day of the lunch, the procrastinators will finally sign up and the last of the guilt-ridden (or truly busy) people will drop out, leaving a (surprisingly) manageable number for lunch.

9. At the restaurant, the affable financial guy will take your order sheet and hand it to the waiter. From this point until the food arrives, you’re his.

10. He will talk about the market. He will talk about insurance. He will talk about retirement. You will blink and nod occasionally. Do not speak – this will prevent you from transforming into a “lead.”

11. The uncomfortable silence that accompanies the “Anybody have any questions?” portion of the pitch will end when the food arrives. At this point, the financial guy stealthily acquires your contact information, disingenuously tells you to enjoy your lunch and departs.

12. Eat your lunch – every. last. bite.

13. In a day or two (standard call-back time in financial circles, as well as social), he will attempt to contact you and gauge your interest in his or his organization’s services. Ignore this call at all costs.

14. Ignore all follow-up calls. If you accidentally answer the phone, hang up immediately. If this is not possible, avoid the following subjects: Roth IRAs, debt consolidation, saving for college.

15. Find another fishbowl lunch contest. Repeat.

This guide was based on a recent lunch won at Qdoba , paid for by Ameritrade and furnished by Pietro’s Coal Oven Pizza.

Django

This is not a picture of Philadelphia’s Django restaurant. Instead, the painting represents the BYOB’s artistic namesake: Django Reinhardt, France’s most influential Gypsy jazz guitarist.

The comparison is an auspicious one, for just like the real Django evoked mini-symphonies through the plucking of his guitar, the restaurant named after him creates impeccable meals from a medley of fresh, seasonal ingredients.
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My Lunch: Smiths Restaurant|Lounge

No, that’s not my lunch up there, but it’s the only photo I could find for Smiths Restaurant|Lounge, the new(ish) resident of 19th Street’s tumultuous restaurant/bar collective.

I think there used to be a pizza place in the Smiths spot, but it’s gone now. As is Bootsie’s, another bar across the street. Only Matyson, buoyed by great reviews and a fanatic customer base, seems to thrive in this dead zone between Market and Walnut Streets.

Can Smiths make the case to stay here for a year or (gasp) more?

As its name suggests, the answer is a concrete maybe. Smiths is a good place – not terrible, not great… just average. The space itself is very open, despite having two bars and (at least at lunch) a burgeoning clientèle. I was also impressed by its cleanliness, both in terms of design and the lack of clutter. With its unassumingly simple decor, one could make the case for Smiths being the anti-Continental.

The menu consists of a somewhat elevated take on bar food, as illustrated by the above picture of crabcake sliders. The cooks get all of the staples right – the angus beef burgers were big and juicy, the sandwiches highlighted some novel flavor combinations, and the thin-style fries were a perfect match of crunchy and chewy. The appetizers we ordered – quesadillas and crispy crab wanton rolls – were only decent, though the flat bread pizzas and crocks looked quite adventurously prepared.

There were some distractions, however. The flat panel TVs that adorn every wall (seemingly in lieu of any real decorations) struck me as overkill. I understand how these kind of places want to attract both the foodie crowd and the beer crowd, but the pairing just didn’t seem organic here, especially for a location known more for its proximity to downtown businesses than its sports bar crowd.

Also, and I feel this is a bit of an anomaly, we were seated close to the kitchen, meaning a lot of server foot traffic. The thumps of a flat-footed waitress with thick heels combined with a weak floor made it seem like Andre the Giant was crossing behind my chair every five minutes. I swear I could feel my chair shake a little bit each time she passed.

Aside from such issues, I would definitely visit Smiths again. It has all your bar basics and better-than-average food, though it still has a lot of work to do before it’s considered a “destination” for out-of-towners.

Enjoy it if you get there, don’t worry if you don’t.

A Tale of Two Italians

I had the not-so-rare opportunity to eat at two Italian restaurants on consecutive nights this past weekend. This is how it went down…


It was Friday night when the wife and I decided to jaunt across the street in the middle of a rain storm to try Le Castagne. You may remember us attempting a similar feat last month around Valentine’s Day, but the restaurant was closed for a private function and we ended up at Mercato.

This time, we were immediately seated in the front of the restaurant. The first thing that struck me was the somewhat odd layout and decor. I’m convinced this space was not originally intended to be a restaurant, as the ceiling was way too high and the furnishings way too portable to only function as an eatery. It gives off more of a gallery or function hall vibe, rather than a destination for intimidate dinner conversation.

Regardless, we took our seats and ordered a couple glasses of wine from the extensive wine list. The bread, freshly baked, was accompanied by a sun dried tomato pesto and was a perfectly chewy way to begin the meal. We decided to share a salad – the insalata alla gorgonzola – which the waiter graciously split between two plates. The standard mix included greens, tomatoes, gorgonzola, candied walnuts and a nicely balanced vinaigrette dressing.

Although the specials sounded delicious, we were both in the mood for pasta and went full force on the carbs. I ordered the pappardelle bolognese and my wife, the gnocchi di patate alla sorrentina. Both were excellently prepared.

We concluded our night without any dessert, but a small sense of accomplishment that we had finally conquered the restaurant mere feet away from our apartment. Le Castagne was a good restaurant, though we still prefer the more intimate (and cheaper) appeals of our neighborhood BYOBs.

“A step up from the Olive Garden” is the way my friend described the White Plains (NY) restaurant Zanaro’s. So I didn’t exactly walk in with much confidence.

Unfortunately, the place more than lived up to its reputation with a typical assortment of Italian-American cliches in menu, decor and service.

But before I get to bashing the place, I will first say that we had a great time. It was my friend’s 30th birthday party and it wouldn’t have mattered if we were at the real Olive Garden. We ate, we drank and we were merry… that is, when we weren’t fending off a waiter that was aggressively up-selling us at every turn.

Honestly, I think it was the waiter more than any other factor that dragged this place down. The food was decent – as good as can be expected from a place that is proud to serve “the finest Barilla pasta” – if uninspired and the prices were surprisingly low for the prime real estate the restaurant was eating up. But, man, that waiter!

Let’s begin with the bottled water. I know that offering a choice of bottled or tap water is the latest rage in bilking customers for every penny, but this was just obnoxious. Not only did the guy not offer tap water, he approached the first of us with a big bottle, readying his knife to cut away the plastic covering. When my friend wisely spoke up to reject the bottle, the waiter gave her the nastiest look I’ve seen in a while. As we all chimed up for tap water, his face melted into confusion.

Our wine selection was accompanied by further amazement. While we did order a Merlot, he brought a more expensive bottle than we ordered, and then claimed ignorance when we confronted him. Instead of apologizing, he retorted that we would like this wine better. Since it was only a few bucks more, I acquiesced, but it made me feel like dirt.

I felt even worse when I got back to Philly. It turned out that my wife had gotten the same bottle of wine while I was away. Her price – $9. Our price – $33.

Is that considered a mark-up or straight robbery? Because I’m achingly suspicious that it’s the latter.

Who knew I had to go all the way to one of the richest counties in the US to get robbed?

No Second Fiddle: The Philly Roast Pork

Unless you’ve been living in a cave (I’m looking at you, Osama), you know that only one sandwich reigns supreme in Philadelphia – the cheesesteak.

Contrary to popular opinion, however, it’s not the only hoagie in town. Recently, a different meat and cheese combo has emerged from the City of Brotherly Love to challenge (or at least provide an alternative to) the almighty cheesesteak. It is the roast pork with sharp provolone.

A number of places in and around Philadelphia specialize in this new nirvana, among them John’s Roast Pork, Tony Luke’s, and the lesser known Lenny’s (in Conshohocken). Tommy DiNic’s in the great Reading Terminal Market may be the best of the bunch.

Like the others, Tommy’s has an extremely limited menu — your only choices are the pork or the beef brisket — and is a cash-only establishment. What you see is what you get, and what you get is heaven on a roll.

There are just three add-ons: sharp provolone, roasted peppers and greens (broccoli rabe, I think). From what I’ve seen and tasted around the Philly area, the first two are standard and the greens are optional.

A few other things to keep in mind when you visit DiNic’s:

  • As you may or may not be able to tell from the picture, the pork is sliced, not shredded or chunked. It’s certainly different from the other ways I’ve tried, but the format doesn’t matter. Taste is the thing that counts.
  • Same thing goes for the roasted green peppers. I’m more accustomed to the red ones, but the greens went just fine.
  • This thing’s sloppy. Remember to roll back those sleeves and get your legs under the table. Better yet, bring a bib.
  • Sharp provolone doesn’t melt all that well. You may miss some of the ooey-gooeyness from the cheesesteak, but the sharp’s flavor more than makes up for it.
  • Be prepared to wait, especially during peak lunch hours. It’s worth it.

Will the cheesesteak ever be toppled? I doubt it; certainly not in Philly. But if you have time for just one more lunch and you’ve had your fill of the great beef beast, try something different.

The Philly roast pork – it’s like Yahooing when everybody else is Googling.