
Even though I’m thinking of moving all my restaurant reviews to Yelp, I figure I at least owe you this post. And by “you” I mean both my readers (are you still here?) and my neighborhood.
Ready? Let’s do this.

Even though I’m thinking of moving all my restaurant reviews to Yelp, I figure I at least owe you this post. And by “you” I mean both my readers (are you still here?) and my neighborhood.
Ready? Let’s do this.
Posted in NYC, Restaurants, Roundups
Tagged Amsterdam Ave., Big Nick's, brunch, burgers, by the slice, French bistro, French toast, Nice Matin, NYC, pizza, Restaurants, Sarabeth's West, Shake Shack, Upper West Side

Is there any movie more purely enjoyable than The Goonies?
While I love the whole adventure, it’s characters like Mouth, Data, the Fratellis and Sloth that really make this film an undeniable classic.
But there’s one character I hold closest to my heart: CHUNK. The food-obsessed klutz has some of the best lines, by far the most memorable facial expressions and a charm that shines through even the most serious scenes.
Of course, Chunk’s most famous quality is his ability to eat in the face of danger. For a rundown of his edible conquests, keep reading…
Posted in Food on Film
Tagged baby ruth, chocolate eruption, chunk, depressed, eating, food, ice cream, mikey, pizza, sloth, swenson's, the goonies, whipped cream
Now that I’ve shamelessly lifted this great pic from Jason Perlow’s in-depth review of the pizza restaurant, A Mano, I’m not sure I can add anything of value to what seems to be an extremely well-covered dining experience.
But then I read about a huge change to the eatery that occurred six months previous to my arrival in North Jersey: the original pizza pioneer left and the menu was retooled to become more America-friendly. Evidently, the well-regarded Roberto Caporuscio was let go for making pies that were a little too authentic.
What?
If you go back to that first review, which is pre-menu-change, you’ll see some pretty convincing evidence that Roberto was serving one of the most authentic (and by all accounts tasty) Neopolitan pizzas around. That the management felt this uniquely Italian food was off-putting to much of its New Jersey clientele seems to me to be completely insane. But, hey, they own a restaurant and I don’t.
So, being that I did not have the opportunity to try the original Roberto pies, I figured my little review here might provide some insight into what the A Mano experience is like to a newbie, ignorant (at the time of dining) of the menu shenanigans that took place not seven months earlier.
Posted in Restaurants, Ridgewood
Tagged A Mano, American, authentic, chef change, gorgonzola, Neopolitan, pizza, tricolore salad

Wow, take a gander at this monstrosity. Only in Japan, a land virtually untouched by obesity, can the marketing wizards at Pizza Hut peddle a 646 calorie per slice (per slice!!!) food to kids without the least demonstration of conscience or remorse.
According to Gizmodo, Pizza Hut’s “exclusive” Double Roll pie includes bacon-wrapped wieners, mini hamburgers, pepperoni, three kinds of cheeses, and a few veggies.
And because that’s not hurl-inducing enough, how about adding a little ketchup and maple syrup? Because, ya know, that other stuff just doesn’t have the thick, viscous quality that’s driving all the kids nuts these days.
Honestly, when food becomes this kitschy, it’s more sad than cute.
Thanks to Meghan for the heads-up on this article.
Update 5/9/08
More crazy Asian pizza crusts here!
Posted in Curiosities, To Go, Travel
Tagged double roll, japan, ketchup, maple syrup, pepperoni, pizza, pizza hut

First of all, a big thank you to Foodaphilia for the photos I forgot to take, even though I actually had my camera.
Second of all, wow.
Tacconelli’s serves easily the best pizza I’ve had in Philly, and probably the best thin-crust pizza in the land. Could it be the best ever? We’ll get to that in a minute.

One of the most interesting, and debated, aspects of the Tacconelli’s experience is the requirement that you reserve dough at least one day ahead. This does not mean, however, that you’re expected to make your own pie out of a pile of raw pizza dough. Far from it.
This policy is simply a means – and a quite effective one at that – of quality control. Tacconelli’s, a “one-man, one-oven operation,” does not (and will not) use refrigerated or frozen dough. They only make as many pizzas as there is dough to make them. Sound logic if you ask me.
The place itself is fairly dumpy. You got a few chairs, a few tables, a linoleum floor and some lights. It takes “no frills” to an almost ludicrous level, with only paper plates, paper napkins and plastic cups for your beverages – which, as you might expect, are BYO.
But mamma mia, what a pizza pie! From the first crunchy-soft bite to the last, this was the very epitome of good eats. Though I never got to see the actual menu (a small laminated thing tossed haphazardly around the table), I counted at least four different types of pies:
I must have had at least six slices out of the five pies we ordered. On a good night, I’m guessing I could probably down a whole pie myself. It’s really that good.
However…
I just can’t bring myself to rate it above Grimaldi’s in Brooklyn. Although they’re both in somewhat remote parts of their respective cities – Tacconelli’s in Port Richmond, about 20 minutes north of Center City; and Grimaldi’s in the shadow of the Brooklyn Bridge – and both pride themselves on the freshness of their dough and other ingredients, Tacconnelli’s strikes me as too much of a specialty pie.
I’m fairly certain the thin crust is closer to what’s made in Italy, but pizza is as American as it is Italian. And the gold standard of this mixed tradition is still Grimaldi’s.
Sorry, Philly. If it makes you feel any better, you’ve got Boston pizza beaten by a mile!
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Posted in Philadelphia, Restaurants
Tagged best, brooklyn, dough, fresh, grimaldi's, new york, Philadelphia, pizza, pizzeria, port richmond, tacconelli's, thin crust


Unlike Sasquatch, the grassy knoll shooter and a satisfying version of the third Godfather movie, the ever-elusive “free lunch” actually exists. If you’re in downtown Philly, here’s how to get one:
1. Get a job that provides you with copious amounts of business cards.

2. Find a plastic fishbowl, preferably with a sign that urges you to deposit a business card “for your chance to win a free lunch for you and 5 to 10 of your co-workers!”
3. Deposit your business card into said receptacle.
4. Wait.
5. Win. You’ll know you’ve completed this step when you receive an enthusiastic, congratulatory phone call from a financial services representative. Act happy.
6. The financial guy (and it’s always a guy) will make restaurant arrangements and send you a sign-up sheet and menu for your convenience.
7. Your office-mates will debate whether they can escape work for an hour next Tuesday. Mass indecisiveness will cause your sign-up sheet to resemble one of those declassified military documents.
8. On the day of the lunch, the procrastinators will finally sign up and the last of the guilt-ridden (or truly busy) people will drop out, leaving a (surprisingly) manageable number for lunch.
9. At the restaurant, the affable financial guy will take your order sheet and hand it to the waiter. From this point until the food arrives, you’re his.
10. He will talk about the market. He will talk about insurance. He will talk about retirement. You will blink and nod occasionally. Do not speak – this will prevent you from transforming into a “lead.”
11. The uncomfortable silence that accompanies the “Anybody have any questions?” portion of the pitch will end when the food arrives. At this point, the financial guy stealthily acquires your contact information, disingenuously tells you to enjoy your lunch and departs.
12. Eat your lunch – every. last. bite.
13. In a day or two (standard call-back time in financial circles, as well as social), he will attempt to contact you and gauge your interest in his or his organization’s services. Ignore this call at all costs.
14. Ignore all follow-up calls. If you accidentally answer the phone, hang up immediately. If this is not possible, avoid the following subjects: Roth IRAs, debt consolidation, saving for college.
15. Find another fishbowl lunch contest. Repeat.

This guide was based on a recent lunch won at Qdoba , paid for by Ameritrade and furnished by Pietro’s Coal Oven Pizza.
Posted in My Lunch, Philadelphia
Tagged ameritrade, business cards, contest, fishbowl, free lunch, Philadelphia, pietro's, pizza
Welcome back, constant readers. Or semi-constant readers. Or even first-time readers. Or whomever you are.
I’m sure you’re all dying to know how the pizza appetizers turned out. In a word: excellent. Everyone seemed to really dig them… although it was a particularly sympathetic audience.
Next time, however, I’m going to do some things differently. Because the cuts were so sloppy (making for big pieces), I’m going to chop up the pre-cooked crust into smaller pieces, and then top each piece separately. I think this will make them easier to handle and more like true hors d’oeuvres.
As far as the rest of Thanksgiving dishes (made and assembled in various kitchens), here’s how it broke down:
And for dessert:
Good stuff.
I hope your holiday was just as tasty!
Tagged carrot cake, pizza, potluck, pumpkin, thanksgiving, turkey
I know what you’re thinking: “More pizza?! I can’t take it any more. There’s more to food than just cheese and crust!”
Well, you sir (or ma’am), are in luck. This is not a story about pizza.
It’s about two pizzas.
The first pie was the infamous experimental pizza, meant to assuage my fears that I would completely ruin Thanksgiving. Within one crust, I made two separate combos (and an alternate) to make sure that both will work on its own. The first half (right side of the first picture) was a twist on the caramelized dealy I tried last week. This time, however, I added pear slices between the caramelized onion base and the blue cheese. Wow.
The other half (left side of the first picture) was an apple experiment. I originally meant the cheese to be only cheddar, but I was convinced to add an alternative – Gruyere – by an extremely knowledgeable, friendly cheese guy from DiBruno Brothers – an amazing gourmet food shop in Philly. So I split the two cheeses between the two corners, added some apple slices and topped it with some crispy turkey bacon. Score.




Not only did both pizza ideas work better than expected, they were, by far, the best I’ve ever made. I haven’t seen either combination exactly the same way on the Internets, so I’ll have to write them up as recipes to prove my creative prowess. Incidentally, I like to think of this blogging thing as a poor man’s copyright; kind of like sealing your idea in an envelope and sending it to yourself. Even if somebody steals my flavor combo, though, I’ll still have the satisfaction of having not killed my relatives via sub par Thanksgiving appetizer. That would’ve been just embarrassing.
Trying to keep the pizza streak alive, and taking some hints from my very clever commentators (from last pizza post), I went right back to a traditional sauce and cheese pie for dinner. Again it was on wheat crust, but this time, I pre-cooked it before adding the toppings. I also dried the fresh mozzarella to make sure it didn’t over-moisten the crust. Finally, I was lucky enough to have some spinach and mushrooms in the house, so I sauted them in the same pan as the caramelized onions and turkey bacon, giving both a nice, salty flavor.
Three for three! Or really two for two, since (technically) there were only two crusts. Either way, it was a successful night of pizza-making. And I needed it.
Posted in Cooking, Philadelphia
Tagged apple, blue cheese, caramelized onions, cheddar, gruyere, mozzarella, mushroom, pear, pizza, spinach, turkey bacon



This past Saturday night, the wife and I were invited to the ‘burbs for a local Iron Chef throw down between my friend Lou and his boss Darcy. It was pretty much the best thing ever.
The Battle
For more than an hour and a half, the food war raged in the well-stocked kitchen of Darcy’s immense farmhouse. There were dogs, there was wine, there was even a soundtrack countdown, alerting both participants and audience to how much time was remaining. And the humble pine nut (the night’s special ingredient) was everywhere.
When the dust settled, each chef had three dishes.
Appetizer Course
Darcy presented a salad of greens, prosciutto, cooked red onion, shaved Parmesan, pine nuts and dressing. All of the flavors really went well together, making for a nice, light introduction to the meal.
Lou made a signature pizza with pesto sauce and goat cheese, accompanied by pear slices, Gruyere and blue cheese, and honey. Despite my not liking goat cheese, the pizza was solid. And, of course, you can never go wrong with fruit and cheese.
Entree Course
Darcy made a pasta dish combining farfalle, sausage pieces, mozzarella, and pine nuts. I’m sure there were other ingredients , but whatever was there worked. It was a warm, hearty dish.
Lou presented grilled lambchops, over couscous made with apricot, mint, pine nuts and other flavors. I don’t know how he did it (considering pieces were flying this way and that), but the lamb was cooked perfectly and the couscous was refreshing and complementary.
Dessert Course
Darcy sauted figs in a port and spice concoction, and drizzled them with melted Nutella. She accompanied this with cold marscapone custard covered with pine nuts and fresh whipped cream. I’m not usually a port or fig fan, but everybody raved about this combination.
Lou, using a machine provided by yours truly, prepared a honey/pine nut ice cream, garnished with mint. Although it was a bit melty, the ice cream was still a sweet ending.
The Verdict
Too close to call. I was pleasantly surprised that every single dish was successful, and I couldn’t find a soul to disagree. It almost makes me nervous that, some day, my cuisine may not reign as supreme.
I actually got it right this time: 450 degrees for 10 – 12 minutes.
I used a whole wheat crust, which is slightly difficult to judge because it’s already brown before cooked.
The only thing that still eludes me is how not to get a bubbling pool of cheese, sauce and liquid in the middle of the pie. Any suggestions?